Turkana – Wangechi Gitahi Travels

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Life as a traditional Turkana lady

By Wangechi Gitahi

I saw him from across the room and I smiled at him, even though I had only seen him from a far on my last visit to Turkanaland. He seemed to sense my gaze and looked in my direction, a beautiful smile breaking from his lips, revealing white sparkling teeth. He rose and walked towards me, eyes locked on mine as if daring me to turn away. The last time I saw him, I didn’t get adequate time to look at him, learn his features, see him in his element or learn who he really is. No way was I going to let this chance pass me by and so I gawked, unashamedly. When he stood before me, I was impressed by his firm strong handshake, his confident gaze, his pronounced physical features and I noted he had a cute parting between the teeth on his lower gum. He greeted…

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Cradle Tented Camps, A haven in Lodwar

By Wangechi Gitahi

Lodwar town is the capital of Turkana County, better known as Turkanaland. Turkana Land is located in Northern Kenya, a region that is greatly misunderstood by outsiders mainly due to misguided, negative stereotyping. As I ventured into Turkanaland, with Lodwar being my first stop, I was anxious about so many things, one being where I would sleep. I can hereby confirm that yes, there is quite a variety of accommodation options in Lodwar. My highlight though is Cradle Tented Camp which offers luxury accommodation and became my home for a few days. I stumbled upon it as I was exploring Lodwar and indeed, it seduced me at first glance and that is how I ended up being a guest. They have various unique facilities that do indeed make it a “haven in Lodwar”. It is home to the only swimming pool in Lodwar which I assure you, is a major seduction noting…

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Eliye Springs Resort- The pearl of Eliye Springs

By Wangechi Gitahi

Eliye Springs Resort is located in Eliye Springs also known as Ille Springs in Turkana county, Kenya. When I ventured into Turkanaland as part of a solo backpacking mission, I was overwhelmed by how beautiful it is. I think I can best liken the area to an oyster. From the outer shell, it seems to be made of hard bare rock, that has been exposed to harsh conditions for a long time. If you are bold enough to touch it, rub its shell and be bold enough to open it up via exploration, you will be met with beautiful pearls in various forms, shapes and sizes. For more on my “Oyster” experience, check out: http://wangechigitahitravels.com/the-best-kept-secret-that-is-eliye-springs-turkana/ and http://wangechigitahitravels.com/my-homecoming-to-turkanaland/ As I hardly knew much about the area, I was psychologically prepared to sleep in the open space, as I had done in my younger years-the joys of youth :-). However, as we drove…

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The best kept secret that is Eliye Springs, Turkana

By Wangechi Gitahi

I am elated to say that the beauty that is Turkana, is one of the best kept secrets I have ever discovered. I shared part one of my “Homecoming to Turkana” http://wangechigitahitravels.com/my-homecoming-to-turkanaland/ and yet, Turkana continued to unravel more of its secrets to me. Move closer, and let me share with you part two of my “Homecoming to Turkana” which was experienced in Eliye Springs. Eliye springs is best described as a beach paradise. Turkana is home to part of Lake Turkana and unlike the Marsabit side which is rocky, Eliye Springs side is all sandy beaches by its shores. A visit to Turkana Land would be incomplete without venturing there so go on, visit. There is so much to experience and engage in. 1: Boat rides I discovered that Lake Turkana has Central Island NationaI Park found on it, which is a UNESCO Heritage Site. It has three active…

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My homecoming to Turkanaland

By Wangechi Gitahi

Turkana county also referred to as Turkanaland and is believed to be the “Cradle of Mankind”, due to it being home to the remains of the most complete, early human skeleton ever found in the world. The skeleton is believed to be between 1.5 to 1.6 million years and is referred to as “Turkana Boy” or “Nariokotome Boy”, after the location it was found in. Growing up, I heard so many negative things about my “home” -drought, poverty, bandits, cattle rustling, food aid-the list is endless. Instead of scaring me off, it left me with a burning desire to “one day visit”, see, explore and experience the region for myself. Surely I told myself, it can’t be all dark and gloom, there must be something nice, beautiful, a silver lining in the cloud and I was going to go in search of it. First forward to 2018, and for some reason, Turkana sprung to…

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Marsabit Lake Turkana Cultural Festival

By Wangechi Gitahi

The Marsabit Lake Turkana Festival is one of those “must attend” festivals in Kenya. The festival has been held annually in Loiyangalani since 2008 and it brings together the 14 communities found within the county who are dominantly pastoral and have preserved their culture. You will interact with communities like the Turkana, Samburu , Borana, Gabbra , Rendile , El Molo , Somali, Burji ,Konso, Sakuye ,Waata, Garee, Wayu, and Dassanatch, the last 5 I learnt of their existence at the festival.These communities are stereotyped to be enemies due to the many incidences of banditry in the region, but here , they were all, eating , drinking, singing and dancing together. The air in Loiyangalani was charged, super charged. The excitement of the people was almost tangible and equally contagious. The locals were expectant of the “fruits” the festival would bring the town whilst I was expectant of what I…

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Challenges of Backpacking Northern Kenya

By Wangechi Gitahi

What inspired my first, solo, backpacking expedition in Kenya you may wonder? Well, curiosity and a moment of insanity may be to blame I believe. Most people who know or have heard of Northern Kenya have the perception that the area is dry, undeveloped and is a security threat to all due to the numerous insecurity cases ranging from cattle rustling to deadly inter community/clan clashes. One may thus wonder, why, of all places , I chose this area. Well, it is only after one of my foreign readers queried on the safety of solo, female backpackers travelling in Kenya that it hit me, I didn’t actually know, as I had never traveled solo in Kenya. My conscience wouldn’t be clear if I responded with a generic response as all my articles and information are about my actual, personal experiences. My brain thus conjured this amazing albeit insane plan that…

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Demystifying Loiyangalani

By Wangechi Gitahi

Loiyangalani, home of Lake Turkana was to be my last stop on my backpacking solo, overland, via public means, from Nairobi to Northern Kenya expedition. I thus approached it from Baragoi via hitch hiking a lorry/truck. This was not my preferred mode of transport but after having stayed in Baragoi for about five days and discovering that there are no public vehicles from there to Loiyangalani, this was my only option. When we heard that a truck/lorry heading there had stopped over in the town, I hurriedly went to talk to the driver and plead my case. He eventually agreed albeit one condition, I would have to sit atop the railings of the truck/lorry as its front and back compartment were full with luggage. I did not hesitate, if this is how it would have to happen, then that is how we would travel. I however did it with my heart…

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Discovering Baragoi

By Wangechi Gitahi

Everyone I asked about how to get to Lake Turkana from Suguta Marmar had the same response, “Nani huenda huko” which is swahili for, “who goes there?” I thus opted to proceeed to Maralal town hoping to get help there seeing as it is a big town. After several failed attempts, we found a lady who was honest enough to tell us why no one was helping our pursuit. She spoke to us like a worried mother and said, ” Wasichana wenye huenda huko ni wasichana wanaenda na wanaume wazungu ama wazee” which translates to,” the girls who travel there are those who are travelling with male foreigners or old men.” (Ouch). However, I think just seeing the look in our eyes, the backpacks on our backs and the lack of foreign or old men around us, seemed to settle her and she informed us that we would need…